If your greens are tender and not too voluminous for your pan, simply wilt them in a skillet with the water that clings to their leaves after washing, or steam them. Although boiling is usually considered a less nutritious way of cooking vegetables, the more quickly they cook, the fewer nutrients they lose, and tender greens will spend only the briefest time in a big pot of boiling water. In general, 2 or 3 people can easily consume a pound of greens, for they shrink to nearly nothing.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. While it's heating, wash the greens. Add salt to taste to the water, then plunge the greens in all at once. Cook just until they're tender, then scoop them into a colander. Leave them to drain from 2 to 5 minutes.

Toss the greens with olive oil or butter to taste and season with salt and pepper. Put them in a bowl or on a platter and serve with lemon wedges or vinegar. A bit of acid always benefits greens.

Cooking greens in the pan: Put greens that have been washed and not dried in a wide skillet and sprinkle with salt. Cook over high heat until tender from 3 to 5 minutes turning them occasionally with tongs. Lift them out of the pan,
leaving any liquid behind. Toss with butter or oil, taste for salt, season with pepper, and serve.

Excerpted from Local Flavors by Deborah Madison Copyright © 2002 by Deborah Madison. Excerpted by permission of Broadway, a division of Random House of Canada Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.