If you tackle the job of dissolving makeup like you’re removing pine sap from the hood of your car, no product in the world is going to do you any good. Technique is important to keeping your skin in good condition.

Best Health asked Dermalogica skin therapist Holly Sherrard, education manager for the Dermal Skin Institute, for her expert advice on the best way to remove eye and face makeup. “You want to make sure you don’t rub too hard, which can inflame the skin,” says Sherrard. Time is important too. Sherrard said that an informal survey at the institute revealed women spend 20 seconds removing their face makeup. “Even I was surprised when I timed myself that I spend 17 seconds. You should really spend 60 seconds on your face.”

Eye makeup: If you’re using remover on a cotton pad, sweep down over the entire eye using light pressure, then bring the pad under the eye, moving from the inner corner to the outer eye. “Moving from the inner corner outward forces you to be gentle,” says Sherrard. Turn the pad over and do your other eye. If you prefer not to use a cotton pad, massage a pea-size amount of product between fingers and gently massage around the eye with circular movements. Rinse with cool to warm water (not hot), splashing downward “to remove all the debris,” says Sherrard.

Face makeup: Include the entire face up to the hairline (where breakouts often occur), neck and décolleté. Massage cleanser in circular movements, moving upward from the chest. “If your movements bring out any red in the skin, ease up on the pressure,” says Sherrard. Use warm to cool water to rinse. “If you use a cloth, you can get behind the neck and ensure you’re removing all the cleanser from the hairline,” she adds. If you're using a cleanser meant for the face and eyes, you can of course use the eye makeup removing technique above that does not require a cotton pad. Unless your cleanser is oil-based, do a double cleansing: once to remove surface dirt, the second cleansing to give a deeper clean.

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